As the American pilgrims approached Wartburg Castle, they let their imagination rewind five centuries to the night when Martin Luther was âkidnappedâ by masked horsemen and hustled deep into the forest.
A prince concerned for Luther's safety had ordered the abduction. The German monk-turned-reformerâs life was in danger after his writings were deemed heretical by Roman Catholic leaders and he had given his defiant âHere I standâ speech at the Diet of Worms.
The pilgrims walked up the steep hill to the castle, where Luther spent 10 months from 1521 to 1522 in hiding, and one of them huffed, âNo wonder they never found him!â
The group was on a 10-day tour of Luther Country â sites in Germany that played an important role in the reformerâs life â conducted in June by St. Paul-Reformation Lutheran Church in St. Paul, Minn., to coincide with the .
âIt was amazing to imagine what it mustâve been like,â Patte Edwards of Wheaton, Ill., said over lunch after the trek up to the castle.
âWhen you see the actual layout of the things that youâve read about, itâs just amazing. It becomes so much more vivid and lifelike. Itâs really emotional.â
The Americans also visited Eisleben, where Luther was born and died; Erfurt, where he studied at university and then entered the Augustinian monastery; and Leipzig, where he famously debated Johann Eck and where Johann Sebastian Bach later composed the music of the Reformation.
The irony of a Luther pilgrimage, given that it was one of the Catholic spiritual practices Luther himself was bent on reforming, was not lost on the Rev. Patrick Shebeck, pastor of St. Paul-Reformation.
âFor all of Lutherâs vehemence against the veneration of relics, thatâs exactly what weâre doing,â Shebeck said.
Planeloads of Protestants have been visiting Germany this year, leading up to Oct. 31. On that date in 1517 Luther reportedly nailed his 95 thesesâor objections to Catholic practicesâto the Castle Church door in Wittenberg, Germany, sparking the Reformation.
Across central Germany, âLuther 2017â banners hung from towers and city halls, bearing Lutherâs cartoon face and the phrase âAm Anfang war das WortâââIn the beginning was the Wordâ â a reference to his emphasis on Scripture alone.
The Wartburg Castle, the Lutherhaus in Wittenbergâthe former cloister where Luther and his wife Katharina von Bora made their homeâand the Deutsches Historisches Museum in Berlin all are hosting national exhibitions related to Luther and the Reformation.
Wittenberg, the town perhaps most closely linked to Luther and the Reformation, was expecting to double the number of visitors this year, by official estimates. The town gets about 1 million visitors in an average year, and tourism was up 12 percent through March, before the busy summer travel season and fall anniversary, according to Elke Witt, manager of the Welterbe Region.
Wittenberg hosted a World Reformation Exhibition during the summer and erected a 360-degree panorama installation by artist Yadegar Asisi showing what the town might have looked like in 1517. Its two churchesâthe Castle Church and St. Maryâs, the âmother churchâ of the Reformation â had been closed years in advance for restoration work. The city was also the site for the .
For Shebeck, St. Paul-Reformationâs pastor, one of the most moving moments of the June trip came not at one of Germanyâs many Luther sites, but at Buchenwald, the World War II concentration camp for Jews. Kurt Hendel, a retired professor of Reformation history at the Lutheran School of Theology at Chicago, had talked with the group there about Lutherâs anti-Semitic writings, later used as Nazi propaganda.
âI think people want a saint to be perfect, and I think saints are probably real,â he said. âTheyâre not perfect.â
Neither are pilgrimages âmagic,â the pastor added. But people continue to make them, even Lutherans, because âphysical places have a sort of power or energy that people can feel.â
âIf you go to a place where something happened, it doesnât matter if youâre Lutheran or Catholic or whatever â I think thereâs a human need for physicality,â he said. âTo see the door [of the Castle Church] or to see the Wartburg [Castle] helps people to understand better and to make it part of their own story.â
Shebeck doesnât think Luther is rolling in his grave at the idea his followers are making a pilgrimage to it.
âI think itâs OK,â he said. âNobody is praying to Luther or thinking their salvation is dependent on this.â
(Reporting from Germany on the 500th anniversary of the Reformation was made possible in part by funding from the German National Tourist Board. This story has been edited for length, with one additional link.)
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